Items needed:

• Floor jack
• Jack stands and wheel stops
• 17 mm wrench
• 14 mm wrench
• 10 mm wrench
• Impact wrench if you’ve got it
• 13 mm (for muffler removal, if needed)

Rear:

1. Jack up the rear of the car (I used the rear differential housing as my jack point). Place jack stands. Be sure to use the wheel stops on the front tires, just as an added safety measure.

2. There are four bolts holding the rubber bushings on the sway bar in place. Remove all four on each side.

3. There is a connecting rod on the end of the sway bar that connects to the suspension. Remove the bolt that is connected directly to the sway bar on each side.

4. Watch your head because once that last bolt is out, the sway bar is going to drop down onto your exhaust pipe. It takes some maneuvering to get the sway bar over the exhaust in order to remove it, so to make it easier; I unhooked my muffler from the rear hangers so I could pull the pipes down a bit.

5. Install new sway bar. Select your settings if it’s adjustable, and bolt the ends back into the connecting rods that are hanging down. Remember, the rear sway should hang on top of the exhaust pipes.

6. Install the new bushings and bolt back into place. If they’re not rubber (and that’s a good thing—my stock rubber bushings were pretty torn up after 9500 miles) you’ll need some lubricant to slide them back into place.

7. Go back and make sure all your bolts are torqued down tightly. Once that’s done, let the car down, and get ready to do the front.

1. Move the wheel stops to the back tires (safety first), then jack up one side of the car. Securely place your first jack stand, and then repeat on the other side. You need to make sure you can easily get underneath the car on both sides.

2. Remove the plastic diffuser piece. There are approximately 3 bolts on the back on it (located near your cats) and 10 bolts right behind your front chin guard. There’s also one plastic “rivet” style bolt in the center. That’s most easily removed with a flat head screwdriver.

3. Once that’s all set aside, there is another plastic piece on the passenger side of the car that’s held up by three more of the plastic rivet style bolts. You’ll have to remove that to get to the end of the sway bar.

4. Remove four bolts on each side—just like the ones you did in the rear, that hold together the bushings.

5. Remove bolts located at the TOP of the connecting rod on the end of the sways. Use caution; once again, as soon as the second bolt is removed the sway bar will fall to the ground.

6. Remove the rods from the stock sway and replace them in the exact same position (unless you bought the EVOs—those required some “modifications” to the rods), and don’t forget to select your settings if the front sway is adjustable.

7. Replace now sway bar where connecting rods where originally located.

8. Replace bushings and bushing brace back to original spots.

9. Tighten all the bolts you removed and replaced, to make sure nothing is loose.

10. Replace plastic diffuser.

11. Jack car back up to remove jack stands, then slowly lower it back down.

12. Take a test drive to make sure everything is set. If your sways came with anything other than rubber bushings (be happy!), they will creak a little as you drive. That’s perfectly normal because they won’t have as much give as the stock rubber bushings did. If it’s something that bothers you, you can use a little graphite to rub over the bushings to quiet them down.