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Main bracket installation
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Note the routing of the hose behind the main bracket; make sure it's clear of all pulleys
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Securing the fuel pump
Also note for later reference the routing of the vacuum hose to the bypass valve over the top of the radiator hose
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Refer to Illustration E1 on page 44: Hose P on right from tee connector to connector R which hooks to factory PCV hose on left (photo on right shows remainder of PCV connections)
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We installed the lower intercooler mounting brackets first
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Slide the intake elbow in as far as you can get it; attach the PCV hose and the bypass/surge hose with a clamp
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Angle the MAF sensor toward the plenum so that when the hood is lowered, it will not hit the sensor
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Now you can trim up the engine cover to fit around the supercharger brackets and front cog belt

How to Install
ATI ProCharger (supercharger)
on a 350Z ('03 or '04)

Installation Phase

Brackets and Supercharger

Pages 24 and 26, Steps 1, 5, & 6: Ensure all pulleys and idlers spin freely on the main bracket. If they don't check that you've installed the spacers correctly. Check the torque on all bolts on all brackets as you install each one (torque specs are on page 2). You can also reference illustration C5 on page 26.

Page 28, add a new step after Step 7: Check the oil drain plug so that it is not too tight. If it is too tight, you will not be able to get a wrench on it to drain the oil. You may want to buy a new plug with a slightly thicker head to make getting a wrench on it easier. An alternative for draining oil is a suction device supplied by ATI to suck oil out the oil filler hole on top.

Page 30, Steps 9 - 13: Pay close attention to these steps, they can be tricky. Step 11 (installing the compressor bracket) in particular can be tough. When positioning the compressor, ensure the discharge hose is properly routed before tightening bolts.

Page 32, Step 14: Ensure the IVT wires are free of the compressor drive pulley flange; zip tie the wires securely out of the way of the flange.

Page 32, Steps 15 and 17: We can't emphasize correct alignment and tensioning of the two cog belts enough. If the belts are too loose or do not run true, you will destroy the belts quickly; too tight and you will burn up pulley bearings. We know of one professional (paid) installation where the cog belts were too loose and the belts were destroyed within a week. As simple as it may sound, we've also seen ProCharger installation photos (the installation obviously done by amateurs) where the belts are not correctly routed—double-check correct routing of all belts.

Page 34, Step 20: The serpentine belt is difficult to tension because there is no adequate distance to properly check tension. The best place to check tension is between the alternator and power steering pump pulleys. Do this from under the car when tensioning the belt. It may appear too tight, but you should only be able to twist the belt about 20-25 degrees. You'll know if it's too loose when you start the Z and get belt squeal. Increase tension in half-turns of the tensioning bolt until cold start-up squeal disappears. Do not overtension the belt. Leave the lower engine cowl off until you get the belt correctly tensioned over a couple of days. With the lower cowl left off, ensure the fender fairings are fastened to the front fascia. Note all this information on page 55, step 29.

Page 34, Step 22: You can easily do this step later. If so, annotate it on page 55, step 30.

Fuel System and Fuel Management Unit

Caution: Remember there will be fuel in the line when you disconnect it: stay clear and use a container to catch the fuel. Read the information at the beginning of this section in the manual carefully. Take note that since the auxiliary fuel pump is a DC motor, you can make it spin in either direction which is why you have to pay very close attention to the correct positive and negative electrical connections.

Page 37, Illustration D3: Study this schematic carefully, and lay out your parts as shown in the schematic so you know how they will fit together. The label at the bottom center of the diagram should read "Stock Fuel Line To Fuel Rail." Obvious, but the "Barb Tee" arrow doesn't point to the barbed tee. The way the fuel pumps work is when the auxiliary fuel pump pressure exceeds the pressure from the stock fuel pump, flow from the stock fuel pump is directed only to the auxiliary fuel pump.

Page 37, Illustration D4: The fuel pump is not installed in the position shown. Look at Illustration D5 for the correct installation location. the pump clamp goes around the power steering fluid reservoir bracket. Also in Illustration D4, you will see a braided stainless steel line connected to the cross fitting. Do not look for this line in your kit—it goes to an optional fuel pressure gauge.

Page 37, Step 9: You can defer this step to page 52 when you do the rest of the PCV/vacuum line connections. We preferred to do the PCV/vacuum connections all in the same procedure so we didn't miss any part of this crucial process.

Page 40, Step 11: We selected a different orientation for the EFMU installation. Our orientation gave us a cleaner installation, minimized wasted space in the glove box tray, and is oriented toward the driver's seat—easier to read when seated in the driver's seat.

Page 41, Illustration D8: We used a T connector and higher quality electrical connectors throughout the installation. The supplied connectors tend to crack when crimped. Our connectors have a softer, pliable plastic shroud. These are readily available at almost any good auto parts supply store. It was pretty easy for us, because we already had bags of better connectors in our tool box. Alternatively, you can solder your connectors and then tape them.

Wire and Vacuum Line Routing from Engine Bay to the Glove Box: You'll notice that the manual doesn't really address this step. Tape the ends of the vacuum hose, the red 10 gauge wire, the black 10 gauge wire, and the yellow 12 gauge wire together with electrical tape. This will allow you pull all four together during routing. Straighten out about 10' of the hose and wires so there are no kinks. If you want a professional looking harness use harness tape starting from about a foot from the end of the wires—two people can do this very quickly; one holds a section taut while the other wraps. Above the fusebox on the firewall in the battery compartment, you will see a large rubber boot where the main wiring harness passes through the center. We carefully cut a slot just in front of the main harness large enough for our wire and hose bundle to pass through. Make sure you hit the large hole under the boot where the main harness is. Pass about 10' of your hose/wire bundle through the hole. Note, you only have 10' of vacuum hose; we added a connector and another 3' of hose. At the connector, the hose is zip tied. The connector is at the rubber boot, so it keeps the vacuum line from being crimped. You'll find that the bundle drops right to the passenger side floor. Unclip the door sill, the front sill, and the first part of the rear sill. Unhook the carpet hooks under the sills. You will note a white plastic protector next to the seat; the hose to the rear window washer runs through it.. Pull this out and thread your bundle through it. Reinstall the plastic protector. Snap a section of plastic wire loom around your bundle where it comes down through the top of the firewall, and run it down to the white plastic protector. Tuck it in the neat little groove on the side of the passenger side floor. Snap the rest of the wire loom on the bundle from the white plastic protector to the end. Route the bundle up through the opening to the glove box (the glove box tray snaps out). Tape about a foot or so of the red 18 gauge wire from the ignition source to your wire bundle so you have at least a foot or more of free wire when you remove the tray. Replace the carpet and sills, and proceed to page 42, step 10.

Page 42, Step 15: If you deferred step 9 previously, leave the end of the vacuum line near the plenum area. You will hook it up to the tee when the tee is installed.

Add a New Step: Check continuity of all your wiring with an Ohm meter. If you don't have one, you'll have to wait until later to check continuity when you have the battery hooked up.

Note: We also wrapped our wires in the engine compartment to give it a more finished, professional look.


Note: Since it is easier to install the PCV/vacuum lines at this point, we skipped over to page 52, PCV Installation section. The reason is, if you install the intake tube to the throttle body, you will have to remove it to do the PCV lines. Refer to page 44, Illustration E1, and lay out all your PCV/vacuum parts so you can see how they fit together. You will note that notations in steps 20 - 25 on page 52 are confusing and not quite correct. Remember, doing this section right is a very critical step, so make sure you understand thoroughly how everything hooks up. Serious engine damage could result if done incorrectly. Make sure all hose connections are securely clamped or zip tied so nothing can pull loose.

Preassemble the vacuum tee fittings (page 37, step 9). Use Loc-Tite when you assemble the fittings on the tee—it is critical that you do not have any vacuum leaks in your fittings; engine damage could result. In our assembly, it was preferable to use the brass 90 degree fitting to connect to the vacuum line going to the EFMU. See the tee connector photo on the right.

Page 52, Steps 20 - 25: Note that we will use the annotations in Illustration E1 on page 44 rather than the annotations in Illustrations E15 , E16, and E17 (they are wrong). In Illustration E15, change 1/2" to 3/8" Reducer to part R, and change Supplied 1/2" PCV Hose to part P. In Illustration E16, change Supplied 1/2" PCV Hose to part P in three places, and change 1/2" Tee to part O. In Illustration E17, change 1/2" Hose Section to part P and 5/8" to 1/2" Reducer to part Q. Also see the accompanying photos on the left and right—click the photos to see annotations corresponding to Illustration E1.

20. Connect 1/2" Tee (part O) to hose (part P) and connect other end of hose to reducer (part R).

21. Connect reducer to stock PCV hose at left front of plenum (as you're looking at engine from the front). You'll remove the hose from it's stock fitting at the front of the plenum.

22. Connect 1/2" hose section (part P) to 1/2" Tee (part O) and install the 5/8" to 1/2" reducer (part Q) to the other end of the hose using supplied clamps. Connect reducer (part Q) to the factory 5/8" PCV hose. Illustration E17 with noted changes.

23. Connect 1/2" hose section (part P) to 1/2" tee (part O).

24. Route the other end of hose under the compressor and out and up to where the air intake tube (part U) will be. When the intake tube is installed, attach the hose to the fitting in the tube.

25. Hose S connects to the vacuum tee fitting and runs to where the stock PCV hose was connected at the front of the intake plenum.

New Step: From Page 37, Step 9: Take assembled vacuum tee and connect to hose S in step above. Connect the vacuum line from the EFMU to the 90 degree fitting. Connect the vacuum line that runs from the tee to the bypass valve. We ran our line forward over the radiator hose, and it fit very neatly into the crevice on top of the fan shroud, then it drops down to the front area below the headlight on the driver's side where it will eventually be connected to the bypass valve.

Now go back to page 45 to complete the intercooler and piping installation.

Intercooler and Intake Piping

We suggest installing the intercooler next, and then do all the tubing last. This is so you can ensure all the tubing lines up correctly. You may have to trim some of the rubber hoses for a better fit. If you wish to do this then skip over to page 48, and run Steps 6 through 9 for the intercooler. Then complete all the rest of the piping starting on page 50, and run steps 10 through 12.

Page 50, Step 10: Bend the lower left corner of the bumper bracket inward and up so that no sharp corner will wear a hole in the upper tube on the intercooler.

Now go back to page 45 and pick up with Steps 1 through 5.

Page 45, Steps 1 & 2: Make sure the MAF sensor connection is angled toward the plenum so that when the hood is lowered it will not hit the connector. The way Illustration E2 shows it, the connector wire will not be long enough. Refer to out photo on the left side showing the MAF housing orientation and connector. Attach the connector after the tube section is installed.

Now jump back forward to page 50, and pick up steps 13 through 19.

Page 50, Step 15: You will have to do a little twisting and turning of all the tubing pieces to get the best fit. Once you've got everything to your satisfaction, tighten down all the hose clamps.

Page 52, Step 18: We routed our vacuum line in the crevice at the top of the fan shroud. We believe it's a much better routing than that suggested in the manual.

Once you've competed step 19, jump forward to page 55.

Add a New Step: Here is where we reinstall the upper right front fascia bracket that goes across the compressor inlet tube. We removed it and set it aside in step 21 on page 12. Note that you will probably have to cut out a curved portion on the back of the bracket to get a good fit around the intake. There's a photo on the right that shows how the bracket is cut (not pretty, but functional).

Page 55, Step 29: You may want to leave the lower engine cowl off for a couple of days in case you have to adjust the serpentine belt tension.

Page 55, Step 30: Trim the engine cover to fit around the supercharger brackets and front cog belt. We used a saber saw to rough cut and then precision high-speed grinding tool with a small, fine grinding bit.

Add a New Step: Check everything again, and then go back and check it again.

Add a New Step: If you haven't previously checked your EFMU wiring continuity, be sure to check it after you've hooked up the battery.

Add a New Step: Set the EFMU settings to starting settings listed on page 58, item 2.

Add a New Step: Put oil in the supercharger!

Add a New Step: Put power steering fluid in the reservoir. Then go do step 38 on page 22.

Phases (click on a link):

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Back to The Garage

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Pay close attention to Page 30, Step 11; that little braket in the center of the picture is a killer
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Vacuum tee connector fittlings
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Refer to Illustration E1 on page 44: PCV tee connector (part O), driver's side of engine, hose P to reducer Q (center of photo), hose P down from tee connector to intake fitting (part U), hose P running to lower left in photo goes to connector R (shown in the photo on the left)
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Lower intercooler brackets installed
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Run the upper intercooler tube first; it takes a bit of doing to get the hose and clamp installed on the backside; then hook up the bypass valve and tubing; connect the vacuum line to the bypass valve; note that we bent back the lower left corner of the bumber bracket so it doesn't wear a hole in the upper intercooler tube
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Trim this bracket so that it fits around the intake elbow better; it's the bracket you set aside way back in step 21 on page 12 (we know, it's not pretty, but it's covered by the front fascia)
© 2003 Z Chickz
Last updated: Sunday, January 14, 2007 8:45 AM