• Enclosed parts are different than listed in the enclosed instructions parts list.
• All instructions reference the parts by number, and you will have to refer to the parts list (see photos left and right).
• Instructions are incomplete and missing a few key details - in fact, there are some serious information gaps.

This article clarifies and expands on the kit instructions. Pictures for parts are included and referenced to the part numbers in the instructions. Click on the photos on the left and right to enlarge.

You will need:

• Metric socket set, 3/8" drive
• Ratchets, 3/8" drive
• Extension, 3/8", 6" long
• Full metric box/open end wrench set up to 21 mm
• Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, various sizes
• Pliers: needle-nose, standard
• Dikes to clip zip ties
• Set of picks
• Allen wrench set
• Loc-Tite
• Joint tape
• Floor jack
• Jack stands (2)
• Trays to hold nuts and bolts
• Zip ties: large, medium, small
• Vacuum line: 2' and T connector
• Shop rags of course
• Two hose clamps and connector
• Optional 06 AN connector/adapter from pressure regulator to fuel pressure gauge sending unit

Procedure:

1. Remove fuel pump fuse (inside battery box on firewall fuse box - remove cowl pieces to access - fuse is on bottom, left side)
2. Start engine and run until it stalls - this will relieve most of the fuel pressure in lines
3. Disconnect battery cables (negative first)
4. Remove strut tower bar
5. Remove engine cover
6. Remove intake piping from throttle body - completely removing an entire section is recommended - you may have to remove the MAF connector as well, depending on your setup and what you remove
7. Remove all wires and hoses attached to the upper plenum - there are two coolant hoses going to the lower part of the plenum near the throttle body that will be easier to remove after the upper plenum is loose
8. Remove all bolts and two nuts holding the upper plenum in place - 10mm
9. Remove upper plenum - here is where you can easily remove the two coolant hoses going to the bottom of the plenum near the throttle body
10. Remove the fuel dampener assembly from the lower plenum on passenger side - 10mm
11. Remove the hose from the front of the lower plenum
12. Remove the bolts from the lower plenum - 6 in the center, and two nuts outside center front and rear - 10mm
13. Remove the lower plenum and cover the intake manifold with shop cloth
14. Remove the two hoses from the fuel dampener assembly hardline pass through
15. Remove the main fuel feed line at the quick disconnect on the passenger side - may be easier to get at from the bottom, in which case you will have to jack the front end up and drop the under engine fairing - have a shop rag handy to catch any fuel drips
16. Remove the injector wire connectors from the injectors - pick the metal clips in order to remove the connectors (for RC injectors, just push in on the metal clips)
17. Remove the four fuel rail bolts - 12mm
18. Carefully lift up as straight as possible on the fuel rails to remove - use care not to damage the fuel injectors - watch for fuel draining from rails
19. Remove the fuel injector clips (use small flat-head screwdriver) and pull injectors straight out - watch for fuel as you remove the injectors
20. Install adapters (part 3) on both ends of each fuel rail - use tape on threads.
21. Lightly lubricate the injector O-rings with clean oil
22. Insert injectors into rails - connectors go toward outside of rail that has engraved lettering
NOTE: The instructions say to use the injector clips - this is impossible with the RC 550cc injectors; you cannot use the clips. I did not check fit of stock injectors.
23. Install the fuel rails (longer one on passenger side; shorter one on driver's side) - use care to press straight in - connect electrical connectors and then replace four 12mm bolts (with spacers for RC injectors)
NOTE: The supplied black plastic spacers are 2.5 times too short for the RC 550cc injectors - use the aluminum RC spacers.
24. Pre-assemble the lines that will be installed at each end of the fuel rails (see photo on left for line assembly details - one picture is worth 1,000 words you know)
25. Install the return fuel line assembly - the 90 degree connector installs on the passenger side and routes down the driver's side valve cover - the 45 degree connector installs on the driver's side and routes down the passenger side valve cover
26. Injector harness ties were clipped off and harness and fuel lines secured with large zip tie through the original harness tie hole (shown in photo on right)
27. Pre-assemble the fuel pressure regulator components as shown in photo
NOTE: You can replace the fuel pressure gauge with a sending unit to a fuel pressure gauge in the vehicle interior, or you can replace the plug with a 06 AN adapter for the fuel pressure gauge sending unit and still use the pressure gauge on the regulator (second option recommended).
28. Locate a suitable mounting point on the firewall for the pressure regulator - you will have to put a couple bends in the supplied regulator mounting bracket (it's just snipped from thin sheet metal - you can fabricate a more substantial and nicer bracket)
NOTE: Account for plenum reinstallation and make sure the mounting point allows enough room -- you can test fit the lower plenum to check mounting point suitability.
NOTE: If installing the Kinetix SSV intake manifold, do not mount the fuel pressure regulator on the firewall - shorten the fuel return line coming into the regulator and fit the regulator into the space at the bend of the intake pipe - see related article on Kinetix SSV installation
29. Mark drill holes for the regulator bracket in the firewall and carefully drill guide holes smaller than the mounting screws - the screws are self-tapping - attach the mounting bracket
30. Attach the return line assembly connector to the regulator right side, under the vacuum line connector, and attach regulator to the mounting bracket with supplied allen head screws (we'll deal with the vacuum line on the regulator later)
31. Attach the pre-assembled fuel feed lines to the fuel rails - the line routes off toward the passenger side from the fuel rails
32. Attach the quick disconnect fitting with the supplied screw clamp on the bare end of the fuel feed line (parts 19 & 20 respectively)
33. Connect the fuel feed line to the stock fuel line with the quick disconnect connector - ensure the fuel line is secured and well clear of the exhaust manifold
34. Attach the fuel return line to the bottom of the pressure regulator and route down the passenger side near the fuel feed line - ensure the fuel line is secured and clear of the exhaust manifold
35. Remove glove box bottom piece, tray, and lining to expose fuel pump assembly
36. Jack passenger side and place jack stands
37. Route the return fuel line through the existing fuel line clips down the passenger side frame rail and follow the path of the fuel feed line to the tank (you can use a wire to pull the fuel line up next to the gas tank)
38. Remove the jack stands and lower the car
39. Remove fuel pump assembly from fuel tank: twist four cover retaining clips 90 degrees - remove electrical connector and them fuel line - remove screws and retaining ring - lift pump assembly out carefully and avoid bending the fuel level float arm
CAUTION: Before removing pump assembly, make sure battery is disconnected and you ground yourself to car to avoid static discharge and ignition of any fuel vapors in tank - avoid fuel spillage by placing pump assembly in shallow plastic pan - have a shop cloth handy to catch any fuel seepage when disconnecting fuel line
40. Remove the fuel pump assembly outer cover and drill a hole in the top of the fuel pump assembly right above the fuel pump - be sure to have clearance for the connector nut - install connector as shown in the photo
41. Remove the stock fuel pressure regulator, preassemble the new regulator bypass with connector as shown in the photo, and press into pump assembly
42. Install the fuel return line between the two fittings - ensure it is routed so it slides back into the fuel pump assembly outer cover - slide the assembly back into the outer cover
43. Reinstall the fuel pump assembly in reverse order as above and again, be careful not to bend the fuel level float
44. Leave the fuel pump assembly cover off so you can check for leaks when you pressurize the system
45. Reconnect battery cables (positive first)
46. Replace the fuel pump fuse and cowling
47. Turn the ignition on so that the fuel pump runs, and check all lines for leaks - tighten fittings if necessary
48. Replace the fuel pump assembly cover, lining, and glove box tray
NOTE: See related article on Kinetix SSV intake manifold installation in lieu of steps 49-54
NOTE: New lower and upper plenum gaskets are recommended
49. Replace the lower plenum - refer to service manual for bolt tightening order and torque specs
50 . Connect the hose to the front of the lower plenum
51. Connect the two EGR lines that previously ran through the fuel dampener assembly together with a connector and clamps (additional parts you need to buy - AAM is supposed to add a connector to the kit as a result of my feedback)
52. Replace the upper plenum - attach the two coolant lines at the rear and then lower plenum into place
53. Tighten the upper plenum bolts/nuts in the order shown in the service manual using torque specs
54. Replace hoses and wires previously removed
55. Locate a suitable vacuum port on the plenum (if you have forced induction, you can T off your vacuum/boost gauge line), and route your vacuum line to the vacuum fitting on the fuel pressure regulator - clamp or zip tie the vacuum hose to the connectors
56. Reinstall the intake and MAF connector
NOTE: If you previously removed the under engine fairing, you can replace it now.
57. Go through and double-check that everything is hooked back up correctly, and then fire that Z baby up
58. Tune the fuel pressure using the adjustment screw on the top of the pressure regulator - unlock the screw with the nut, and then use an allen wrench to make the adjustments; 51psi for a Z at idle is optimum - lock the nut when finished adjusting
NOTE: If you set the idle fuel pressure too high, the ECU senses an overpressure (around 65 psi) and will shut the fuel injectors down - the old VQ35 will obviously not run with the injectors shut down

Instructions in Word document
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